Made! - Maternity Wardrobe

There's not been an announcement here on the blog yet, but if you connect with me elsewhere via my music postings you are already well aware that my husband and I are expecting a little one to arrive early 2018.  To be exact: we are expecting him to arrive on FRIDAY. As in...5 days from now - January 12. 

What better way to put sewing skills to use than to make your own maternity clothes, especially when your only local options are Target and WalMart?  I've made my own pants (3 pairs), tops (2), and dresses (1).  I'll focus first on the Maternity Agnes dress, by Tilly & the Buttons.  I was so excited to stumble on this pattern!

It's a comfortable black knit, midi-length dress, one that I've worn during many, many recitals.  It began pretty loose, with lots of extra material around the belly, but as little one grows, I find that isn't the case anymore!

LooCat, Christmas, Roomba, belly, and me on January 4

Seams are all serged, and hems are zigzagged on my regular machine. Sewing with knits is so easy. They're forgiving and the idea of fit is a bit more relaxed of a concept, since the material will help.

This version is a wearable muslin, and I've since made some changes, like taking out a bit of the back shoulder seam and moving the gathers of the front bodice down to accommodate my long waist - all are evident in the floral top below.

As *fun* as it is to make clothes for a new shape, I can't wait to be my normal self again.

Maternity Agnes and jeans from Burda 6607

Agnes can also be a top, and I've made one of those using some Nicole Miller fabric I found at JoAnn's. I really like the print, and cut it so the flowers are more concentrated on one side than the other.  This particular knit is VERY stretchy, so it easily covers my bump and long torso.

somewhere around week 37

Some of the garments I'm most proud of are my maternity pants, made using Burda 6607.  The wearable muslin is navy twill (not pictured), then more adjustments made for the jeans, and a couple more for the black stretch twill pants, which are great for work and concerts.  Despite my efforts to shrink the denim as much as possible, my jeans have lost almost an inch of length since completing them. Arg. Were it warm outside, I would cuff them up to wear with sandals, but considering it's been below freezing for almost a week...guh.

I cut size 14 according to my hip measurement (thank yoooooou inability to exercise properly), and did some grading based on assumptions on how I usually fit pants patterns, but still found that they are a little loose on me.  Just cause you're pregnant doesn't mean you want to be swimming in fabric all the time.

sometime late October

The jeans fit well, as I took width out of the back leg and side seams, and tightened the stretch panel at the top that goes over the belly.  Evidently I also have a rather flat pubis bone (yeah, I dunno), so I took out some extra fabric in the front crotch area by flattening the curve.

a good view of the fit and topstitching on my jeans, and how they fit differently from mid-2nd to late-3rd trimester

The black pants are the most fitted, but because they're made of stretch twill, they are very comfortable, something that is absolutely required these days! I wear them all the time.

January 6 stretchy pants for the 39w2d win

The last garment I have to share is a tunic made from Butterick 6226. I've had this fabric in the stash for the longest time, and had intentions to make a one-shoulder cocktail dress with it, but sometimes present circumstances thwart future sewing plans, yes?  I figured it would be nice to have something colorful amid a winter landscape. I get compliments on it every time I wear it!

I take back what I said...sometimes its fun to be swimming in fabric.

wearing wedding ring on a necklace because they don't fit on any of my current sausage fingers! :'(

I had plans to make so much more for this time in my life, but work and professional activities dwindled the sewing time. Until classes were over, that is.  Since then I've been hard at work making things for me (a postpartum tunic), husband (another bespoke dress shirt), and the little one...whenever he gets here.  At this point, it feels like he's going to stay in there forever!

Made! - McCall's 7119 and 7572

You know how sometimes certain styles make you feel more like yourself?

I feel that way about long skirts and dresses. Double it if there's a wrap involved somewhere.

In case there's any question...I LOVE this dress!!

The pattern is McCall's 7119, and I made View C.

I cut a size 12 and other than a long waist adjustment, didn't alter it, so this is a pretty good wearable muslin! In the future, I will redraft the bodice so it curves in tighter to my body. It's a little generic in the fit now, but with a cami underneath, it's no problem.  The dress is hemmed to work well with flats.

I went all out on the finishings here.

Every seam is a French seam, and I added stay-stitching at every bodice seam, so she would hold her form.  I understitched the band, and slip-stitched the facing in place.  Can you believe that none of that was in the instructions?! Such simple steps, but they make all the difference in the final product.

I had some red satin ribbon on hand, so I added a ribbon stay to the waist seam.  I'm surprised this was not in the directions for this particular view, as no matter what fabric you use, a floor length skirt will be heavy, so the seam needs reinforcement.  My reinforcement comes in the form of red satin ribbon that just so *happens* to match the red of my garment fabric.  ...pats herself on the back for buying Christmas wrappings that will double as sewing notions...

It's been some time since a make corresponded to a life event. This one did!  There was an event called New Music Gathering, which took place in Bowling Green, Ohio in May.  My chamber music project, L+M Duo, performed, and on top of that, it was a great professional/networking event. So...naturally...in order to feel confident...I had to make a special dress for meeting all the important people! :)  It's a little embarrassing how affected my confidence and mood are by my clothes, but I've accepted it and now make my sewing obsession do the work for me!

The tunic is from McCall's 7572, View D.

Obviously, it was made from scraps of fabric from the maxi dress.  I shouldn't have had that much left over, as I bought the amount stated on the envelope. Oh well! I'll take getting another garment out of it.

I did have to piece the back together, but I rather like the design I came up with.  Again, the insides are treated well with French seams, and there's a good amount of handstitching at the neckline. Other than that, she was easy.

Made! - Simplicity 2756

Stash-busting projects are the best. When you don't have to buy anything to make a garment because you have perfect leftovers.

This top is one of those projects.

She's a simple one: Simplicity 2756, one of the first released Project Runway patterns.  The idea behind these is that you pick and choose what elements you want to make, and the envelope tells you how much added material to purchase for a ruffle, bubble sleeve, long sleeve, yoke, collar, or any combination of the above.
  


I've used this pattern twice before, both long before I started blogging. One of those projects was part of a costume for the musical Little Women.  The yoked, long-sleeve version was perfect. I used velcro anywhere a button would be for quick changes, and combined with a long skirt from a different pattern, made a perfect outfit.

But back to this project!

The material is leftover from when I made Butterick 5814 years ago, while still living in WV.  The dress fit alright, but a long torso adjustment was too fiddly and I would up giving the dress to Goodwill after one wear (and subsequent wash, of course!).

I like this top a lot. I've always been a fan of raglan sleeves, and I love the colors of this fabric, as well as the open neckline.  Due to a slight shortage of fabric, I shortened the sleeves and finished them with a narrow hem.  I rather like the simplicity and proportion of it.

back

I graded from a size 6 at the shoulder to a size 12 at the hip, lest I accidentally make a mumu instead of a top.  Inside seams are either serged or French seams, and the neckline is bound with single-fold bias tape.  It was an easy make, and a satisfying one as I got to use the remnant stash.

Can't believe it's been April since the last post.  Husband and I have been traveling everywhere and playing concerts in different cities, so we've had a lot to focus on the last two and a half months.  I've been sewing: 1 maxi dress, 1 tunic, 1 bespoke shirt for husband, and now this top - but there's been no time to blog. I've barely had time (and energy) for work email, practice, and home improvements (like a brand new DIY backsplash across our entire kitchen) as it is.

Anyway, onward and upward, with hopefully more blogging as we go!

Made! - Vogue 1387

When I happened upon this Nicole Miller fabric, I immediately thought of my mom. It is full of her colors: turquoise, pink, and nice blends of green (which she doesn't necessarily love, but look gorgeous on her!).

It pairs perfectly with one of Rebecca Taylor's recent Vogue patterns: V1387.  I made View A, as I was drawn to the defined waist and the wrap style that allows for flexibility in terms of neckline.

The double pleats at each shoulder (which are missing from the line drawing...) allow for flattering drape in the front.  I staystitched each neckline edge, though it was not in the instructions. Without it I think there would be a gaping issue in the front.

The sleeve insets are really interesting! I've never made a top with them, but I might be adjusting every pattern to have this construction. 

Side seams are finished in the French style, and the narrow hem at the bottom looks particularly polished, if I can say so myself. Turquoise, being my mom's favorite color, contrasts yet blends with the print. 

The easy fit of this top allowed for easy pattern grading, as I had to estimate what size to make for my mom. This fabric also has a tiny bit of stretch, which will make up for any tight spots. 

I used bound buttonholes at the drawstring waist, as I thought normal ones would look a little too homemade for this material.  They are hard to spot in the print - but they're there!

Hopefully Mom will be able to pair this with denim, khaki, black, white, and just about any other color on the bottom. The print is rather expertly designed in that regard! 

Sewing Cat

Added a Creative Laurels label, and it was done! I found some clip-on earrings that complement the style and complete this Mother's Day gift. 

Hope she likes it!! Happy Mother's Day, everybody!

Made! - Simplicity 1541 and 1690, New Look 6343

Here they are, the last of my winter makes.

These were sewn for different occasions, from a special concert to Easter Sunday.

New Look 6343

Here's a pattern I've made twice already, once for me and once for my sister. Here is a winter verison, made up in a really comfy sweater knit I purchased at Ragtime Fabrics, my local store (that's only about a mile from my house). 

welcome to our living room!

I didn't worry too much about stripe matching except on the side seams. I wish I'd thought through the sleeves a bit more, but at least the sleeves match each other, even if they don't match the main part of the dress. 

I'm very happy with the result of my neck binding, though. I also edgestitched the armscye using a tiny zig-zag stitch.

Simplicity 1690

This pattern needs no further discussion here on the blog, considering there are previous makes - some blogged, several unblogged.  This version was for husband's solo recital at the university. I accompanied him on his Marimba Concerto no. 2 and played Jacob TV's Body of Your Dreams.  You can watch a video of me playing that piece here, but it's from a different concert.

I used some leftover fabric from a previous gift to my sister - and I looooove it. I added little purposefully messy cuffs on the sleeves for interest.  The sleeves are also lengthened by an inch so the fabric has a chance to drape nicely over the arm.

For the concert, I paired this top with my concert skirt, previously blogged about here.  This skirt is a TNT for concert days!

Simplicity 1541

This was my first time using one of the AmazingFit patterns, and I must admit that this skirt fits really well.  I made View C and followed the cutting and sizing instruction for the "Curvy" pattern. The main difference is that there are four darts in the back rather than the standard two.

I used less than a yard of fabric to make this, which asserts this pattern's place as one of the most amazing EVER.
Here's a close-up of the front princess seams and waistband.

I cut a size 12, used standard seams, and took out a tiny bit of length out of the center front to prevent the waistband from sagging. (I take this to mean that all of my curves are on my sides and in the back...lol)

There's a center back zip, and all edges are serged to prevent fraying.  To keep as much length as possible I used a scrap as hem facing, and I like the little detail and pop of color that can sometimes be seen, depending on how I move.

 Rather than slipstitching the waistband facing, I pressed under the edge and stitched in the ditch on the right side of the garment, catching the facing as I went.  It's my new favorite method.

Currently Sewing

Right now I'm working on a muslin for a button-up shirt for myself.  After making so many for my husband, I decided it was my turn! I'm learning a lot about my own shape, as well as where I want the ease to be.  I avoid RTW button-ups because the ease is never in the right place for me. I hope to remedy that through this muslin process!

Made! - Marimba Spiritual tunic

What's a Marimba Spiritual, you may ask? I'll tell you.

It's a piece of music by Minoru Miki that I had the privilege of performing Monday night at James Madison University.  Scored for a marimba soloist (me!!) with percussion trio, the piece is one of the staples of percussion repertoire.  Though I've performed portions of this piece before, this will be the first time I'll play the entire thing. It's very exciting!!

8am photos...

The back hem is supposed to be angled, which I rather like, actually.

As a musician and a maker, what else is there to do while prepping for a concert than making an outfit for said concert?  This tunic is my second version of Vogue 2064, an OOP Donna Karan pattern.



I've previously made View B with no changes, but this time I added overall length and combined it with View A. Though I love the one-shoulder design, I don't enjoy the anxiety (however faint) that comes along with it.  At concert time, though I trust my own sewing, I'd rather not worry about it flashing some side boob.  Phrases, dynamics, and musical images I'll worry about.  But wardrobe malfunctions?...I'll leave those to the pop stars of the world.  Side note: Do you think I'll get more random Google hits on the blog since I used the word "side boob"??

Close-up. The right front wraps over the left.

For my version, I used the left front of View A, folding under and stitching the armhole allowance rather than attaching a sleeve.  I enjoy the right sleeve in View B: it doesn't get in the way or pull on the bodice, since it's only connected at the lower armscye.  This means big reaches across the marimba, like I have to do in Marimba Spiritual, aren't at all inhibited by clothing.

Here's an example of my first Vogue 2604 in action.

I love this shot! (Sidenote: This was back when I was lifting weights and running often - gotta get back to it!!)

The only tedious part of construction is adding almost 5 feet of thin elastic to the top edge. The instructions say to make a channel and then insert it through, but I found that the material wouldn't stop gathering as I did that, so I had to rip it out and just eye-ball it in place, gently pulling to stretch the fabric while I sewed the channel with the elastic already in it. I'll make sure to do this next time without trying the other method first.

This fabric is nothing sentimental. I think I bought it during one of JoAnn's Red Tag Clearance sales, so I paid maybe $8 for all of it.  I used a ball point needle on my machine for this, though it would be just as easy to use a serger.

Since this is a performance top and I knew I'd move around a lot, rather than using a hook and eye, as the pattern suggests, I attached the drape around the back with a safety pin or two. This way I knew it wouldn't go anywhere, and nobody sees it anyway.

I wore this top with  my concert pants, which I made a few years ago from View C.  You can see them in the photos. They are made of a thick, shiny ponte, which makes them look fancy from the audience, but nobody knows that they are perhaps more comfortable than my yoga pants! :)

Here are the side views.

Left side

Right side

The concert on Monday was great! I was overall happy with the performance, and proud of the work the students did for all the rep, not just Marimba Spiritual.  I'll be making a video (*hopefully*) if I got some good audio and visual.  I'll also try to get some stills of this tunic in action!!

Yay, marimba and sewing coming together!!

Made! - Simplicity 1690 presents

Simplicity 1690 is amazing.

I've made two tops for myself, one for my sister, one for my mom, and now I can add to it these two.  

It's a simple pattern, but I'm thinking that may be why I like it so much!  Its design simplicity allows me to practice other techniques, like perfect narrow French seams and bindings that lay flat.

 The top, with its slightly elongated shoulders, works easily under a cardigan for colder weather or by itself when things turn warm. (I'm looking at you, spring...) 

I think - and I'm hoping... - that this pattern is a nice one for gifts because there's such minimal fitting involved.  If the fabric drapes well enough it will fall nicely, and the only things to worry about are the neck and shoulder lines.  

For my mother-in-law I couldn't pass up this silk crepe covered in kitties. Who makes silk crepe and covers it in kitties??? Anyway, I found it while visiting family in Utah and have been hoarding it so I could make a present for her.

This top drapes beautifully. I fully anticipate that this top will get wear as a pajama top, and that's fine by me. I wear some of my favorite t-shirts/tops to sleep. Something about it is comforting. :)

The other top I'm giving away this Christmas is one of chiffon with subtle silver accents.  

The neck binding got a little gathered for my taste, but in a way it makes the rest of the top fall in a way that will frame the shoulders, which I think will be really flattering.

I double-stitched the sleeves on this version.

I made the chiffon version first, and followed the instructions.  The kitty top came second and I decided to fold up the sleeve hem before stitching the side seams.  This makes using French seams much easier, and they press really well, too.

I look forward to buying fabric on family travels over the holidays!